Sonoran-Style Flour Tortillas

Sonoran-Style Flour Tortillas
Gentl and Hyers for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Rebecca Bartoshesky
Total Time
30 minutes, plus 2½ hours resting time
Rating
4(1,130)
Comments
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In Sonora, a Northern Mexican region where wheat has been cultivated for more than 400 years, tortillas are typically made of flour rather than corn. But unlike the generally lackluster store-bought wrappers most Americans are familiar with, handmade flour tortillas are pliable, chewy, fragrant, and dotted with mahogany blisters.

While this recipe, adapted from Teo Diaz and Julia Guerrero of Sonoratown taqueria in downtown Los Angeles, isn’t complicated, it does require allowing some time for the dough to rest. But the investment is worth it. Once you roll out the tortillas and set them on the hot griddle, they’ll begin to puff with steam as they start to brown. When you take a bite, the aroma of sweet flour enveloped in fat will fill your nose and mouth. Finally, you’ll understand that a tortilla is meant to be an essential component rather than just monotextured wrapping paper for tacos, burritos, or chimichangas. —Samin Nosrat

Featured in: A Homemade Flour Tortilla to Rival Its Corn Counterpart

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Ingredients

Yield:12 tortillas
  • 2heaping cups (10 ounces) all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling
  • teaspoons kosher salt
  • teaspoons baking powder
  • Scant ½ cup (3 ounces) lard, melted
  • ½cup plus 2 tablespoons (5 ounces) hot tap water
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (12 servings)

140 calories; 7 grams fat; 3 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 3 grams monounsaturated fat; 1 gram polyunsaturated fat; 16 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram dietary fiber; 0 grams sugars; 2 grams protein; 116 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together flour, salt and baking powder. Place bowl onto mixer, and affix paddle attachment. Mix for 30 seconds at low speed, then slowly add lard in a thin stream. Allow fat to partly incorporate, then slowly pour water in a thin stream. Allow dough to come together, then increase speed to medium-low and knead for about 2 minutes. The dough will be somewhat wet, webby and shiny. Place dough in a plastic bag, and allow to rest at room temperature for 2 hours.

  2. Step 2

    Divide dough into 12 pieces the size of a golf ball. Roll into smooth balls, and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Cover with plastic, and allow to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

  3. Step 3

    Working on a very lightly floured smooth surface, use a rolling pin to roll balls into 4-inch circles, and place onto a parchment-lined baking sheet in a single layer. Repeat with remaining dough, adding layers of parchment as needed to ensure tortillas do not touch or overlap. Cover last layer with parchment, and allow dough to rest 10 minutes.

  4. Step 4

    Heat a griddle or large cast iron skillet over medium-high heat.

  5. Step 5

    Working on a very lightly floured smooth surface, use a rolling pin to roll each tortilla into an 8-inch circle: Start with the pin in the center of the circle and roll out to the edge, rotating the tortilla after every roll. Roll until the dough is very, very thin and the edges begin to smear onto the work surface. Alternatively, stretch tortillas out by hand, rotating and pulling gently from the edges, until nearly transparent.

  6. Step 6

    When a few drops of water dripped onto the griddle or pan immediately sputter and evaporate, the cooking surface is sufficiently hot. Gently peel the tortilla off the work surface, and lay onto the griddle. It should immediately sizzle and puff lightly. Cook, rotating, for 20 to 30 seconds per side, until lightly golden in spots. Stack in a resealable plastic bag to allow to steam and soften. Continue with remaining tortillas.

  7. Step 7

    Serve warm or use to make tacos, quesadillas or burritos.

Tips
  • Omit lard and use 3 ounces butter or vegetable shortening for vegetarian tortillas. Allow leftover tortillas to cool completely, then wrap tightly in plastic and refrigerate. Reheat in an ungreased skillet.
  • It helps to make these tortillas with a second person. If working by yourself, roll all of the tortillas out completely, stacking between layers of parchment on a baking sheet, before cooking them off.

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Ratings

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Comments

Mother made flour tortillas every day. She would use all purpose flour and vegetable shortening. She also used very hot water and did not melt the shortening, but used her hands to work the shortening into the flour. After kneading, she would place a moist towel over the bowl to let it rest, then pinch off balls of dough, let them rest again before rolling them out. She would roll an entire batch of dough and put waxed paper between each tortilla and put them in refrigerator to use when needed.

In googling Sonoran flour, I see that Hayden Mills grows what they are calling Sonoran heritage wheat in Arizona. I wonder whether is would be a good match to Mexican grown wheat? In addiiton, if one wants to go down the flour rabbit hole, Anson Mills created a "Trigo Fuerte Flatbread Flour" which is a combination of Sonora and Red Fife flours which also sounds promising. They include a flour tortilla recipe using this blend. Certainly, these are more expensive options . . .

LIving in Tucson, we enjoy the luxury ofSonoran flour tortillas in delicious abundance. There is one neighborhood, mom and pop tortiarilla/taqueria that makes the best Sonoran tortillas. They add a bit of cottage cheese and the flavor is muy sabroso! Political warning! The idea that Sonoran flour cannot get through our militarized border, but plenty of illicit drugs get through is a story to be investigated.

I went to the U of A in Tucson’s nursing program in the late 70s and I remember going to St. Mary’s Hospital and stopping to buy homemade flour tortillas at a shop nearby. So good they melted in your mouth! Now I see packaged “Sonoran style flour tortillas “ in the grocery stores here in Southern California but haven’t tried them.

Flour 283g Water 141g Lard 85g

Amazing! Def let get to room temp before cooking if you refrigerate. I rolled out thinner than I thought to better success. Don’t have a tortilla warmer so used kitchen towels and my all clad with cover. It worked! Butter also fine substitute

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Credits

Adapted from Teo Diaz and Julia Guerrero

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