French Salt Cod and Potato Brandade

By David Tanis

French Salt Cod and Potato Brandade
Fred R. Conrad/The New York Times
Total Time
About 1 hour, plus soaking
Rating
5(245)
Comments
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Your feelings about salt cod may depend on where your roots are. If your memories of the dish evoke words like bland and woolly, you likely had it in the Midwest. If you grew up in a Portuguese or Caribbean community, you may have more fond recollections. This recipe, common in France, is an opportunity to give salt cod a second chance, or to try it for the first time. The cod should be rinsed and soaked overnight, but that doesn’t take much effort. For tender fish, the trick is not to overcook it. Keep the flame low, just under a simmer. Cooking the fish in a combination of milk and water, along with a few aromatics like bay leaf, thyme, clove and peppercorns, will keep the fish sweet. While the cod is warm, flake it into a bowl and roughly mash with potatoes and moisten with garlicky olive oil and cream. A bit of cooking liquid is added to lighten the mixture. Serve smooth or chunky, as you like.

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Ingredients

Yield:4 to 6 servings
  • 1pound skinless, boneless salt cod
  • 1cup milk
  • 1large thyme sprig
  • 1bay leaf
  • 5peppercorns
  • 2allspice berries
  • 1clove
  • 1pound potatoes, peeled, cut in 1-inch cubes
  • 6large garlic cloves, peeled
  • Salt and pepper
  • ⅓cup olive oil
  • Pinch cayenne
  • Grated nutmeg
  • ½teaspoon grated lemon zest
  • ½cup crème fraîche, plus 2 tablespoons
  • 3tablespoons cold butter
  • ½cup coarse dry bread crumbs
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (6 servings)

554 calories; 26 grams fat; 9 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 12 grams monounsaturated fat; 3 grams polyunsaturated fat; 26 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams dietary fiber; 4 grams sugars; 53 grams protein; 5412 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Rinse salt cod well and rub off any salt. Soak in 2 quarts cold water. Drain and change water every few hours (an overnight soak without changing is fine). Total soaking time should be at least 8 hours.

  2. Step 2

    In a medium saucepan, heat milk plus 1 cup water over medium-high heat. Add soaked salt cod, thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns, allspice berries and clove. Adjust heat to maintain a bare simmer. Cook until fish flakes easily, about 15 minutes. Remove fish and hold at room temperature.

  3. Step 3

    Meanwhile, in another pot, cover potatoes with water and bring to a boil. Add garlic cloves and a good pinch of salt. Drain potatoes when they are soft, about 15 minutes, reserving cooking liquid and garlic.

  4. Step 4

    Put cooked garlic cloves in a small saucepan and crush with a fork. Add olive oil and heat over a medium flame until quite warm to the touch. Set aside.

  5. Step 5

    Put potatoes in a large mixing bowl. With your fingers, flake cooked salt cod on top. With a potato masher, roughly blend potatoes and fish. Drizzle in warm garlic oil and mash again. Add cayenne, nutmeg to taste and lemon zest. Stir in ½ cup crème fraîche and beat well to combine. Beat in about ½ cup cooking liquid to lighten mixture so it has the texture of soft mashed potatoes. Taste and adjust seasoning — it will probably need salt and pepper.

  6. Step 6

    Heat oven to 400 degrees. Use 1 tablespoon butter to grease a low-sided 1-quart baking dish or pie pan. Transfer brandade mixture to dish and smooth with a spatula. Paint the top with 2 tablespoons crème fraîche, and sprinkle with bread crumbs. Dot top with remaining butter. (May be prepared up to a day ahead and stored in the refrigerator; bring to room temperature before baking.) Bake until golden and bubbling, about 20 minutes.

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Ratings

5 out of 5
245 user ratings
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Comments

Lynn

I was never able to cook tender salt cod. Your advice about not overcooking it and adding aromatics worked perfectly. No more chewy, oddly flavored salt cod. I already had another recipe planned when I read this recipe but will try it soon

Elle

I use a Kitchen Aide mixer with the paddle attachment to flake the cod, mash the potatoes and incorporate all the other ingredients. Works like a charm. Love this recipe!!

Anthony

I cooked extra like a potato pancake in hot oil and served with eggs for breakfast! (kept it cold from the fridge so it kept some form.

Rosalind Lehr

I combined the french version with Newfoundland version by adding savoury and sautéed onion. A can of brandade provided the cream plus some additional poaching liquid. A wonderful dish!

Michale

Fabulous! Better than I’ve ever had at a Brasserie in Paris. In the milk, I also put 1 tsp corriander seed and 1/2 tsp cumin seed that I first toasted and ground.

Leslie

Instead of using salt cod, I often make this with other kinds of flaky white fish. I always have a bag of Basa in my freezer (otherwise known as catfish, I believe, in the US? I'm in Toronto) - makes for an easy, delicious meal. Instead of creme fraiche, I often put a topping of bread crumbs ground up with a little parm, garlic and olive oil in a mini processor. Makes for a flavourful crunchy topping. This is a surprisingly delicious meal, for such humble ingredients. Love it.

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