Hainan Chicken Rice

Published Jan. 28, 2025

Hainan Chicken Rice
Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
Total Time
2 hours 20 minutes, plus refrigerating at least 24 hours
Prep Time
30 minutes
Cook Time
1 hour 50 minutes, plus refrigerating at least 24 hours
Rating
5(77)
Comments
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The joy of Hainan chicken rice is in the sum of its parts: The skin-on chicken is rendered silky and luscious by poaching, with a flavor and texture that’s best enjoyed lukewarm or at room temperature. The liquid is then used to cook the rice, imparting deep flavor and a golden sheen. Finally, the trio of sauces adds a bit of choose-your-own-adventure. Popularized largely in Singapore, this dish is beloved throughout Southeast Asia and its diaspora. This recipe is inspired primarily by a version from Los Angeles chef Johnny Lee, who’s made his reputation in recent years as a Hainan chicken evangelist in Southern California. (You can find a more streamlined one-pot version of the dish here.) There are two essential pieces of equipment for this recipe: an instant-read thermometer to ensure the chicken is cooked through, and a pot large enough for the poaching liquid to completely submerge the chicken.  

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Ingredients

Yield:4 servings

    For the Chicken

    • 1small whole chicken (ideally under 4 pounds)
    • 2tablespoons salt
    • 5scallions, trimmed and cut into quarters
    • 1(4-inch) piece unpeeled ginger, sliced
    • 4garlic cloves
    • 2tablespoons soy sauce
    • 2tablespoons chicken bouillon powder
    • Ice, as needed
    • 1tablespoon toasted sesame oil
    • ½English cucumber, cut into 3-inch sticks, for serving
    • Kecap manis (see Tip), for serving
    • Chile-garlic sauce (see Tip), such as Sriracha (for a milder option, use a sweet chile sauce such as Mae Ploy), for serving

    For the Ginger-scallion Sauce

    • 3tablespoons peeled and finely grated fresh ginger (from two 3-inch pieces)
    • 5scallions, trimmed and finely chopped
    • ¼teaspoon salt
    • Chicken skin from 2 additional chicken thighs (reserve thigh meat for another use)
    • ¼cup vegetable oil
    • ½teaspoon fish sauce
    • Ground white pepper

    For the Rice

    • 2cups jasmine rice
    • 1teaspoon peeled and finely grated fresh ginger (from one 1½-inch piece)
    • 1garlic clove, minced
    • 4pandan leaves (see Tip), knotted into a bundle
Ingredient Substitution Guide

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Prepare the chicken: At least 24 hours or up to three days before cooking, season the outside of the chicken with 1 tablespoon salt, and sprinkle the remaining 1 tablespoon salt inside the cavity. Place in a large bowl, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. About 30 minutes before cooking, remove chicken from the fridge.

  2. Step 2

    Meanwhile, make the ginger-scallion sauce: Place grated ginger in a small heatproof bowl (be sure to include the juice!). Stir in scallions and ¼ teaspoon salt.

  3. Step 3

    Remove any pieces of fat around the cavity of the whole chicken and place the fat in a small saucepan. Add the additional chicken thigh skin and the vegetable oil and turn heat to medium-low. Cook, turning occasionally, for about 18 minutes, or until the chicken fat is rendered and the chicken skin is crunchy. Transfer the crispy skin to a plate.

  4. Step 4

    Pour ¼ cup of the hot chicken oil over the ginger-scallion mixture (it will sizzle), and stir in fish sauce and a few dashes of white pepper. (Reserve the remaining chicken oil.) If you’d like, chop the chicken skin into cornflake-size pieces and add to ginger-scallion sauce.

  5. Step 5

    Prepare the chicken: In your largest pot (ideally 9 quarts or more, but at least 7 quarts, and large enough to submerge the chicken), combine scallions, ginger, garlic, soy sauce, chicken bouillon powder and 10 cups of water. Bring to a boil over high heat.

  6. Step 6

    Holding the chicken by its wings, very carefully dunk the whole bird into the water (with the larger cavity pointing down) so the cavity is filled with poaching liquid. Lift the chicken back up so liquid empties from the cavity, and repeat three more times. On the fourth time, fully submerge the chicken with the breast side up. (The dunkings ensure the inside of the chicken cooks evenly.) If the chicken isn’t fully submerged, add water as needed. When the liquid comes back to a boil, cook for 5 minutes, then turn the heat off (keeping the pot on the burner), cover the pot with a lid, and let the chicken poach in the steaming-hot liquid for 25 minutes.

  7. Step 7

    Shortly before the chicken is done poaching, fill a very large bowl halfway with water and add a handful of ice cubes. When the chicken has poached for 25 minutes, insert tongs into the larger cavity to gently lift chicken from the pot to a large plate (be careful not to rip the skin), allowing any liquid to drain back into the pot. Insert an instant-read thermometer into the thickest part of the thigh and aim for at least 160 degrees (if you prefer more well-done chicken, feel free to cook to 165 degrees). If the chicken isn’t ready yet, place chicken back in liquid, bring the liquid to a simmer over medium heat and cook for 3 additional minutes, then check the temperature again.

  8. Step 8

    When the chicken is cooked, use the tongs to gently transfer it into the ice bath and let sit for 5 minutes. Pour out the ice bath liquid, pat chicken dry with paper towels and brush sesame oil over the skin. If not serving within 30 minutes, cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 1 day; remove from the fridge when you’re ready to cook the rice.

  9. Step 9

    Start the rice: Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve into a large pot. To cook the rice on the stovetop, transfer 3¼ cups of broth (don’t skim off the fat!) to a large saucepan (for a rice-cooker method, see Tip). (Reserve some of the remaining broth for serving if you like, and save the rest for soup or another batch of rice.) Rinse the rice through the fine-mesh sieve until the water runs clear; add rice to the saucepan. Stir in ginger, garlic, pandan leaves and 1 tablespoon of the reserved chicken oil.

  10. Step 10

    Turn heat to medium-high and bring rice mixture to boil. After about 3 minutes of boiling, the rice will puff up and rise to the surface of the cooking liquid. Turn down heat to the lowest setting, cover the saucepan and cook for 16 minutes more, until the liquid is fully absorbed and the rice is tender. Remove and discard the pandan leaves, and keep covered off heat until ready to serve.

  11. Step 11

    On a carving board, use your sharpest chef’s knife to slice the wings and leg quarters off the chicken, then separate the legs into drumsticks and thighs. Very carefully cut along both sides of the breastbone, then horizontally from both sides of the chicken to remove the skin-on breasts from the carcass. Cut the chicken breasts crosswise into ½-inch slices, taking great care to keep skin intact over the slices. Cut the thighs in half along the bone. If needed, warm the chicken slightly by placing the meat on top of the cooked rice in the pot and covering with a lid for a few minutes. (You could also microwave the chicken for 30 to 45 seconds instead.)

  12. Step 12

    Serve the chicken with cucumbers and rice. (To create a dome-shaped mound of rice, pack a serving of rice into a small sauce bowl and invert onto a dinner plate.) Arrange separate dipping bowls of ginger-scallion sauce, kecap manis and chile-garlic sauce in separate sauce bowls. If you’d like, warm the remaining chicken broth and sip it alongside the chicken and rice.

Tips
  • To prepare the rice in a rice cooker, combine the rinsed rice with the proper amount of broth for your rice cooker. (For most rice cookers, it’s a 1-to-1 ratio of rice to liquid.) Stir in the ginger, garlic and chicken oil. Place the pandan leaves on top of the rice and cook according to your cooker’s instructions.
  • Kecap manis (sweet soy sauce) and chile-garlic sauce are widely available at Asian markets or online. Packages of pandan leaves are available in the freezer section of most Asian markets as well.

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Ratings

5 out of 5
77 user ratings
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Comments

I know this is blasphemous in the NYT cooking universe, but I've been making the whole thing in a rice cooker for years and it's one of our favorite simple meals. Ginger garlic soy green onions and broth with the rice, chicken thighs placed right on top, run the regular rice cycle. The chicken comes out perfectly, the rice is flavorful. Nong's in Portland is famous for their Hainese rice, so we just buy their (incredible) sauce from the restaurant. Throw on some homemade pickles and cilantro and you have a company worthy meal.

This took me four and a half years to make. My wife left me. Delicious though.

My family is from Hainan. My grandmother made this with live chickens she got from Chinatown in DC. The taste was very different from store-bought chicken. It may be popular in Singapore, but it truly is a Hainanese island dish.

there is a much less precious recipe of this over on Serious Eats. If you forgot to leave time to let your chicken sit for 24 hours like I did...

a staple! bought a truly free range organic chicken and this time I added two knotted pandas leaves to the water where I cooked the chicken and one more on top of the rice (used a rice cooker). personal option: picked up the scallions and ginger from cooking the chicken and minced both along with a dash of the broth instead of doing the sauce with oil just I was being more mindful of the fat.

Love it. I cut off the fat trimmings the day before cooking the chicken. As usual I'm ahead of the game without realizing that the fat will be needed for the dressing. Nevertheless I compensated it with regular oil, some fat and skin from the chicken and the taste was still great.

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