Zhug
Sarah Anne Ward for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Amy Elise Wilson
Total Time
40 minutes
Rating
4(438)
Comments
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This bright green sauce from Yemen — so fresh from cilantro, so spicy from serrano chiles, so vividly aromatic — will open up a whole world in your cooking. Treat it just as you would a basil pesto or a salsa verde: Make it in small batches, in the mortar and pestle, and then spoon it with abandon over your lunch of cooked lentils with Bulgarian white cheese, chunks of ripe tomatoes and cold cucumbers, your dinner of roasted chicken and sautéed zucchini, or even your breakfast of fried eggs. It brings intense new life and dimension to everything it touches.

Featured in: This Knockout Spicy Sauce From Yemen Will Improve Almost Any Dish

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Ingredients

Yield:About 8 servings (1 generous cup)
  • 2teaspoons whole black peppercorns
  • 2teaspoons coriander seeds
  • 1teaspoon cumin seeds
  • ½teaspoon cardamom seeds, extracted from about 10 cardamom pods
  • 6garlic cloves, smashed
  • 4serrano chiles, cut into very thin coins
  • 1 to 3teaspoons kosher salt, to taste
  • 3tightly packed cups roughly chopped cilantro leaves and stems
  • tightly packed cups roughly chopped parsley leaves
  • ½cup extra-virgin olive oil
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (8 servings)

134 calories; 14 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 10 grams monounsaturated fat; 1 gram polyunsaturated fat; 3 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram dietary fiber; 0 grams sugars; 1 gram protein; 87 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    In a small, dry pan, toast the peppercorns, coriander seeds, cumin seeds and cardamom seeds over medium heat, shaking the pan occasionally, until slightly toasted and fragrant, about 2 minutes.

  2. Step 2

    Transfer the seeds to a large mortar and pestle, and pulverize into a coarse powder.

  3. Step 3

    Add the garlic and chiles, and season evenly with kosher salt. Grind the mixture together until a tight paste forms, 4 to 5 minutes.

  4. Step 4

    Add about ⅓ of the cilantro and parsley, and continue to pound together into a rough paste, another 4 to 5 minutes. Repeat two more times, adding the remaining cilantro and parsley in two batches, until the mixture is a slightly pulpy paste, 4 to 5 minutes.

  5. Step 5

    Drizzle in the olive oil while constantly pounding and grinding together the herb mixture until you achieve a loose, homogeneous paste. Continue to mix until it has the consistency of applesauce, about 2 minutes. Let it stand 10 minutes before serving.

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Ratings

4 out of 5
438 user ratings
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Comments

In the traditional zhug recipe, chilies dominate, though other ingredients are the same: in an Israeli joke, Mummy Crocodile advises her children not to eat Yemeni Jews. I agree with another reader that the salt could be reduced. Most online zhug recipes specify 2 steps (dry-grind the spices with optional pre-toasting, then combine all ingredients in a blender), but I suspect that Ms. Hamilton has yet to meet the quick, simple recipe that she couldn't complicate.

Why not use a blender or food processor?

A mortar & pestle achieve a result entirely different than a machine does even for pesto. When stressed for time, I often use a machine. Only for garlic, I turn to a mortar & salt. The gelatinous paste dissolves into sauces, even tastes differently to me than sauteed chopped or sliced garlic. Time matters in life, if not to great cooks as much as to us in the every day. I think the rougher consistency of pounded herbs, the way the pestle releases oils differs from the knife of a machine.

Question: what makes this come out with a harsh taste? Would it be more likely related to the quality of the garlic? the peppers? or my use of the pounding technique?

Outstanding. Used garden jalapenos, threw in a little fresh dill and basil also from the garden. It definitely needed a little water to blend up well, and some lemon juice really made it bright.

I made this today and followed the recipe as closely as possible (except for 1 tsp of salt) until the volume exceeded the capacity of my mortar and pestle. I was quite disappointed with the flatness of the flavor followed by a bitter aftertaste. I think the first flavor wave might improve with some type of citrus like lemon or lime, but the bitter aftertaste has me puzzled. I usually like both parsley and cilantro although I don't have much experience with serrano peppers.

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