Arroz Caldo With Collards and Soy-Cured Egg Yolks

Arroz Caldo With Collards and Soy-Cured Egg Yolks
Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. Prop Stylist: Carla Gonzalez-Hart.
Total Time
2½ hours
Rating
5(286)
Comments
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The Filipino rice porridge called lugaw started out as a simple equation of rice, water and salt, until the conquistadors arrived in the 16th century and demanded more sumptuous dishes. Add tripe and innards to lugaw, and it becomes goto; with chicken and saffron, it is arroz caldo. It’s looser and soupier than Chinese congee, cooked until you can’t see individual grains. I put in collard greens to make it a balanced meal and use wings because of the high bone-to-meat ratio and the jiggly skin. (Keeping the bones in will give the broth more flavor.) The soy sauce-cured yolks are probably best at the two-hour mark — they get firmer and saltier the longer they cure, so follow your taste.

Featured in: Angela Dimayuga’s 10 Essential Filipino Recipes

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Ingredients

Yield:6 servings (makes 12 cups)
  • 6eggs
  • 2tablespoons neutral oil, such as canola
  • 1medium yellow onion, minced
  • 8garlic cloves, minced
  • pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken flats and drumettes
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1cup jasmine or other long-grain rice
  • 10cups chicken stock
  • 1pound collard greens, leaves ripped off stems, stems discarded and leaves roughly chopped
  • 2(2-inch) pieces skin-on ginger, each crushed into a few pieces, plus 1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and julienned, for garnish
  • 2large pinches of saffron
  • 6teaspoons soy sauce
  • 2tablespoons fish sauce
  • 6fresh calamansi or lemon wedges, for serving
  • 1bunch scallions, thinly sliced, for serving
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (6 servings)

781 calories; 39 grams fat; 10 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 17 grams monounsaturated fat; 8 grams polyunsaturated fat; 51 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams dietary fiber; 9 grams sugars; 55 grams protein; 1884 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Prepare the cured egg yolks — and save your egg carton, as it is the perfect egg-curing holder. You’ll want to first remove the top of the eggs: Working with one at a time, tap each egg on a sharp corner of your work surface around the top third of the egg to pop off the crown. Pour the egg into one palm and let the egg white sink through your fingertips to separate the yolk from the whites, discarding the egg whites or saving them for another use. Gently slide the egg yolk back into its shell, top it with 1 teaspoon soy sauce, and swirl the yolk in its shell so the soy sauce is fully distributed, settling under the yolk as well. Transfer the egg yolk in its shell back into the egg container, setting it upright. Repeat with the remaining eggs, returning them all to the egg carton. Set aside to cure at room temperature.

  2. Step 2

    In a large pot, heat the oil over medium. Add the onion and minced garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 7 minutes.

  3. Step 3

    Add the chicken flats and drumettes, season with 2 teaspoons salt and ½ teaspoon pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fat starts to render, about 5 minutes. Stir in the rice until coated in fat. Increase the temperature to medium-high, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is toasted, about 5 minutes.

  4. Step 4

    Stir in the stock, collards, crushed ginger pieces and saffron and bring to a boil over high.

  5. Step 5

    Reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is tender and almost falling off the bone, and the rice grains have broken down significantly, about 1½ hours. The broth should be thinner than a Chinese congee, so add 1 cup of water at a time if the soup has thickened too much. Once you get to this stage, discard the crushed ginger pieces, which served as an aromatic.

  6. Step 6

    Season the arroz caldo with the fish sauce, then divide among bowls. Top with a squeeze of calamansi or lemon (and serve additional wedges on the side, for those that like more acid), a soy-cured yolk, fried garlic, scallions and julienned ginger.

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Ratings

5 out of 5
286 user ratings
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Comments

Flat: Its the middle part of the chicken wing. For this recipe I suggest bone in thighs

What is a chicken flat?!

That works too! I've made cured egg yolks many times and it doesn't need to stay in the shell - you could just as easily put the yolks into a tupperware with soy sauce, cover it, and let it sit for a few hours (I let mine sit 4 hrs).

Been making this recipe for a few years now, and it’s the closest I’ve ever gotten to recreating the flavor of my Filipino grandpa’s recipe. The chicken on chicken on chicken flavor is really enhanced by homemade broth, but store bought works fine for me in a pinch. I really wouldn’t try to substitute for saffron, it’s a major part of the dish’s intended flavor profile. The cured yolks are a revelation for me. I never tried it before this. Pretty easy to do!

Didn’t love the lemon addition at the end. Maybe cilantro for some brightness. I bet the ginger would have done that but didn’t have any left over for garnish.

A fave! After making this a few times, some tips: curing eggs in the shell made the shells stick to the carton, so much easier to cure in a glass and scoop out carefully with a spoon to serve; not sure how you’re supposed to fish out the ginger chunks, I peel and mince them and love the added bite; sesame seeds, sesame oil and cilantro to serve, these really bring it to the next level. And so important: if you are using full sodium broth from a box, don’t add salt until the end, to taste!

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