Umami Garlic Noodles With Mustard Greens

Umami Garlic Noodles With Mustard Greens
Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times
Total Time
45 minutes
Rating
4(818)
Comments
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The key to this heady noodle dish, adapted from “Vietnamese Food Any Day” (Ten Speed Press, 2019), is to build complexity by layering umami flavors in the pan. The cookbook’s author, Andrea Nguyen, starts with ingredients that are familiar to many pan-fried noodle dishes: oyster sauce, fish sauce, mushrooms, garlic. But then, in a brilliant move, she augments it all with a big dollop of salted, European-style cultured butter to add both creaminess and acidity. There’s also a touch of monosodium glutamate (MSG) in the mix, which you can buy in Asian markets or other supermarkets sold under the name Accent Flavor Enhancer. It has a salty sweetness that deepens all the other flavors. But if you’d rather not use it, nutritional yeast also works well. If you can’t get mustard greens, substitute baby kale or spinach. —Melissa Clark

Featured in: These Generously Buttered Noodles Have Loads of Umami

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Ingredients

Yield:4 to 6 servings
  • 4large garlic cloves, finely grated or minced
  • Kosher salt, as needed
  • 10ounces dried Chinese wheat noodles or Japanese ramen
  • 1tablespoon oyster sauce
  • 2teaspoons fish sauce
  • 1teaspoon cornstarch
  • ½teaspoon monosodium glutamate (MSG), or use ½ teaspoon chicken stock base or 2 tablespoons nutritional yeast
  • ½teaspoon granulated sugar
  • 5tablespoons salted, European-style (cultured) butter
  • 10ounces sliced shiitake or cremini mushrooms
  • 1large bunch mustard greens, stems and leaves, cut into 1½-inch pieces
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 1tablespoon minced shallot
  • Chopped cilantro, for serving
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (6 servings)

319 calories; 18 grams fat; 10 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 6 grams monounsaturated fat; 1 gram polyunsaturated fat; 34 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams dietary fiber; 3 grams sugars; 7 grams protein; 1126 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    In a small bowl, cover garlic with 1 tablespoon water. Set aside.

  2. Step 2

    Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil. Cook noodles 2 minutes less than package directions for very al dente. Reserve ¾ cup noodle water, then drain noodles in a colander, rinse with cool water and set aside.

  3. Step 3

    In a small bowl, whisk together oyster sauce, fish sauce, cornstarch, MSG, sugar and reserved cooking water. Set aside.

  4. Step 4

    In a 12-inch skillet, melt 3 tablespoons butter over medium-high heat. Stir in mushrooms and cook until well browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in mustard greens and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until bright green and just tender, another 2 minutes. Turn off the heat, transfer to a bowl, and season with salt and pepper to taste.

  5. Step 5

    Return skillet to stove (with heat still off) and add remaining 2 tablespoons butter, shallot and garlic-water mixture (do not drain). As butter melts and sizzles, turn heat back on, to medium-low. Cook, stirring frequently, until garlic is fragrant and some pieces are golden, 3 to 5 minutes.

  6. Step 6

    Stir in cooking liquid mixture and raise heat to medium; bring sauce to a bubble. Using tongs, toss in noodles just until coated in sauce, then turn off heat. If noodles look too thick or taste too salty, add a splash of water. Stir in mushrooms and mustard greens. Let it sit for 1 minute, then serve topped with cilantro.

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Ratings

4 out of 5
818 user ratings
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Comments

MSG is not bad for you; in fact, your body makes it on its own. Numerous double blind studies have demonstrated that headaches and other symptoms are not associated with MSG consumption.

I would think a touch of miso might be a good substitute for MSG or the nutritional yeast.

Used both types of mushrooms and asparagus in place of the mustard greens, since it was in season. Had to blanch the asparagus a few minutes, before I added it to the mushrooms. Absolutely excellent, especially with the fried egg, as recommended by one of the commentors. A wonderful mix of asian flavors with the richness of irish butter. May add seared salmon next time.I omitted the MSG, I dont think it was essential. Let’s all remember food is a beautiful treat. Save the criticism for politics.

I was looking for a recipe for mustard greens and came across this one. Made as directed, used nutritional yeast because I had it on hand. Only change (yeah, made as directed except…) I used a scallion in place of the shallot and probably slightly less noodles than it called for. LOVED IT!!

This was so delicious! I wasn't going to buy cultured butter just for this recipe so I used regular butter, but I put in a bit of rice vinegar to add a bit of tanginess. And I subbed in spaghetti and reconstituted dry lobster mushrooms because that's what I had. I think the shittake mushrooms' textures are better for this dish, but the noodles and sauce still turned out so good.

I hadn’t really experimented much with mustard greens before this dish. I had to do a final pre-frost harvest from my community garden two days ago, and had picked a giant head of mustard greens from one of the community plots. I ended up using the greens on their own, slightly wilted to accompany some fried eggs, and also as part of a cheddar and apple grilled cheese sandwich. I am now a huge fan of mustard greens and love how well they worked in this recipe as well.

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Credits

Adapted from “Vietnamese Food Any Day” by Andrea Nguyen (Ten Speed Press, 2019)

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