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Moussaka

Moussaka
Jim Wilson/The New York Times
Total Time
4 hours
Rating
4(687)
Comments
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This recipe for moussaka is adapted from one found in David Rosengarten's book “Taste” which includes an entire section devoted to the classic Greek casserole. In the book, Mr. Rosengarten claims that his is “the lightest, least oily, least tomatoey, most eggplanty, most refined moussaka that you've ever tasted.” Isn't that just what you want as you plan a dinner party? Mr. Rosengarten writes with bravado, but he certainly persuaded me to try his recipe. And it delivered. —Amanda Hesser

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Ingredients

Yield:15 servings
  • 4large eggplants, about 1½ pounds each
  • 6tablespoons Greek olive oil, plus a little for coating the eggplants
  • Kosher salt, to taste
  • 4medium onions, chopped
  • 6garlic cloves, chopped
  • 128-ounce can crushed tomatoes in tomato puree
  • ¼cup parsley, minced
  • 2teaspoons dried oregano
  • ½teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 2tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • 2pounds ground lamb
  • ½cups dry white wine
  • Black pepper to taste
  • 4pinches freshly grated nutmeg
  • 6tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 4tablespoons flour
  • 2cups hot, scalded milk
  • White pepper, to taste
  • 4eggs
  • 10tablespoons fresh bread crumbs
  • 1cup grated kefalotyri cheese or pecorino Romano
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (15 servings)

436 calories; 29 grams fat; 12 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 13 grams monounsaturated fat; 2 grams polyunsaturated fat; 24 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams dietary fiber; 12 grams sugars; 20 grams protein; 1033 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Prick eggplants several times with a fork. Rub a little olive oil into their skins. On a large baking sheet, roast eggplants until soft, about 30 minutes, turning frequently. Remove from oven and let cool. Cut into ½-inch-thick round slices.

  2. Step 2

    In a saute pan, heat 4 tablespoons olive oil over high heat and brown eggplant slices lightly on each side. Do this in batches, adding more oil as necessary. Drain on paper towels and sprinkle with salt. Set aside.

  3. Make Tomato Sauce

    1. Step 3

      In a saucepan heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium heat. Add 1 chopped onion and 2 chopped garlic cloves, and saute until tender. Add tomatoes and their puree, squeezing them into coarse chunks. Add parsley, oregano, cinnamon and vinegar. Stir well. Simmer, uncovered, for 25 minutes. Reserve.

  4. Prepare Lamb

    1. Step 4

      In a large saute pan, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium-high heat. Add remaining onions and garlic. Saute for 5 minutes. Add lamb, in stages if necessary, and brown well, breaking up pieces with a wooden spoon. Add wine and bring to a boil. Cook until wine has nearly evaporated. 5. Season lamb with salt, black pepper and 2 pinches of nutmeg. Stir in 1 cup of reserved tomato sauce. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, covered, for 1 hour.

  5. Prepare Bechamel

    1. Step 5

      In a large saucepan, melt 4 tablespoons of butter over medium-low heat, and gradually whisk in flour. Cook for 2 minutes, whisking constantly. Do not let this brown. Add hot milk and whisk rapidly to combine. Bring to a slow boil, whisking constantly. Reduce heat and simmer for 25 minutes, stirring frequently, until smooth and thickened. Season with salt, white pepper and remaining 2 pinches nutmeg. Let cool slightly.

    2. Step 6

      In a mixing bowl, beat eggs and whisk in a spoonful of bechamel. Whisk in remaining bechamel in a thin stream, and adjust seasoning.

    3. Step 7

      Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Assemble moussaka: Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of bread crumbs across the bottom of a large baking dish (18-by-8-by-3 inches) and cover crumbs evenly with half the eggplant slices. Drain as much oil from lamb mixture as possible, and spread the meat over the eggplant layer. Top meat with half the cheese, then with half the remaining bread crumbs. Place remaining eggplant slices on top of the bread crumbs, then add the bechamel, remaining cheese and remaining bread crumbs in even layers. Dot with remaining butter.

    4. Step 8

      Bake for 45 minutes, until well browned. Remove from oven and let cool slightly, about 15 minutes. Cut into 3-inch squares to serve. Serve with the extra tomato sauce.

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687 user ratings
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Comments

Very good flavor. I increased the garlic and used rice flour. Next time will double the bechamel and use 1 1/2 times the cheese, and will cut the eggplant in thicker slices - maybe 3/4 inch or slightly thicker. (I salted and rinsed the eggplant, sliced it, put it on a cookie sheet greased with olive oil, brushed it with olive oil, and then roasted it for about 30 minutes instead of baking and then frying.)

I fail to see how it can be "least oily" if the eggplant slices are browned in olive oil. Eggplant soaks up oil like a sponge. Instead, I recommend slicing uncooked eggplant, placing the slices on a broiler pan in batches, and brushing the tops lightly with oil. Broil close to the heat source until brown, flip, and broil again without any additional oil on the second side. And definitely more Bechamel.

Addendum—Perhaps because my mother’s family is Greek, I find the seasonings in the recipe wise guidance, but ultimately wimpy. Part of the magic of moussaka is that it takes traditionally “sweet” spices—cinnamon and nutmeg —and pairs them with savory spices (garlic and oregano), for an amazing sensory experience. I hold the savory spices (garlic and oregano) as recommended, but basically double or triple the cinnamon and nutmeg. Taste along the way, but the sweet spices add magic.

Agree with others here, more bechamel is in order. I grated fresh nutmeg- my idea of 4 pinches is generous and added a bit more cinnamon. Roasting may have reduced bitterness that people have trouble with, I will keep roasting. I browned in sparse oil. I toasted fresh breadcrumbs, a bit chunkier than the kind you can purchase, and this added a nice texture to soak up sauce. Go ahead and add more of the tomato sauce when you are assembling.

What an incredible dish! Worth the effort and must admit to being overwhelmed about midway through (the milk boiled over-eek!)…but I persevered (no choice by then!). The comments re the bechamel and tomato sauce, as well as skipping the frying of the eggplant and just roasting it in the oven, were very helpful. Took more olive oil than called for-had to apply more about half-way through and left it in for longer than 30 minutes). For amounts, I prepped 1.5x the ingredients for the bechamel. Did the same for the tomato sauce and have a bunch of extra, even after serving it at the table. More breadcrumbs! I prepped a small French Baguette in the food processor and used all of it (broken into thirds: 1/3 bottom, 1/3 middle and 1/3 top). And used lots more cinnamon and nutmeg. Big pinches of nutmeg. I will definitely try this again when our kids are home (will use ground chicken or turkey-non-red meat eater). Did I say worth the effort?

Two eggs is enough in the bechamel sauce, no need to cook it for 25 minutes. This is criminally underspiced so double everything but garlic and salt. Do not reserve tomato sauce, add it all to the meat. Again DO NOT add four eggs. Even as I was doing it I was thinking "this is completely ridiculous" and it was and I ended up with egg casserole. You don't need that much roux either. The eggplant was the only part that came out half decent because I didn't follow the recipe. Baffling.

Agree the bechamel recipe was strange, very thick, I added more milk before the point of no return, and did not cook for 25 minutes! but I did use the 4 eggs- they added a richness and density- could layer on 2x as much with an egg enriched bechamel for a nice top layer.

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Credits

Adapted from "Taste," by David Rosengarten (Random House, 1998)

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