San Choy Bao (Pork and Water Chestnut Lettuce Wraps)

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Make the noodles (if you want): Set a paper towel-lined plate and slotted spoon or chopsticks next to the stovetop. Pour ½ inch of oil into a small saucepan. Heat over medium until shimmering, 2 to 3 minutes. Test the oil: When you drop in a noodle, the noodle should immediately puff and turn white. (If it turns brown and brittle, that means the oil is too hot. Turn down the heat slightly.)

2. Step 2

   Add a small bundle of noodles and cook just until they puff and turn white, about a second. Transfer immediately to the paper towels. Repeat with the remaining noodles.

3. Step 3

   Make the sauce: In a small bowl, stir the cornstarch into a tablespoon of water until it dissolves. Stir in the soy sauce, hoisin, wine and sesame oil.

4. Step 4

   Make the filling: Heat 2 tablespoons canola oil (if you made the noodles, use some of that oil) in a wok or large skillet over high. When it shimmers, add the garlic, ginger and chile, and stir until fragrant and shiny, 10 seconds. Add the onion and stir until translucent at the edges, 1 to 2 minutes.

5. Step 5

   Add the meat and spread and mash it into the aromatics. Generously grind pepper all over. Cook, stirring and breaking the meat into small chunks, until cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes.

6. Step 6

   Add the celery and water chestnuts and cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp-tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir the sauce, pour it into the wok and stir until everything is coated and the pan juices have thickened, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the filling to a large serving dish. If your celery had leaves, use them as garnish.

7. Step 7

   Set the filling next to a platter of the lettuce, a dish of hoisin and the plate of noodles, if using. To eat, swipe some sauce into a lettuce leaf, stuff it with filling and top with noodles