Meatloaf Stroganoff

Meatloaf Stroganoff
Paola & Murray for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Rebecca Bartoshesky.
Total Time
1½ hours
Rating
4(890)
Comments
Read comments

This meatloaf pays homage to one that was served at the old M. Wells in Long Island City, when the restaurant was in a dodgy old diner where the cooks did prep work on the lunch counters and the vents occasionally caught fire. The chef, Hugue Dufour, folded knuckles of foie gras into this marvelous Stroganoff gravy that he used to nap big loaves of aged-beef meatloaf. I’ve made versions at home with beef and lamb and pork covered in sauce made with mushrooms both wild and supermarket-bland. I’ve spooned canned foie gras into my meatloaf mixture to mimic the original, and I’ve dotted it into the finished sauce as well. That last maneuver was in truth more successful, providing pops of richness against the silkiness of the cream, but I’ve also omitted the foie entirely and no one has been the poorer for it. The adaptations hardly matter. Make a good and juicy meatloaf with the best meat you can find, and cover it with mushrooms and cream. You’ve got a meal to suggest magic.

Featured in: When a Meatloaf Is a Work of Art

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Ingredients

Yield:4 servings
  • 4tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1large yellow onion, peeled and diced
  • 1pound cultivated mushrooms, like button or cremini, cleaned, trimmed and thinly sliced
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • 1cup panko bread crumbs
  • pounds ground beef
  • 1large egg, beaten
  • 1tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon tomato paste
  • 2teaspoons smoked paprika
  • 2cups chicken stock, homemade or store-bought
  • 2teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
  • cups sour cream
  • ½cup heavy cream
  • 4ounces chicken-liver pâté or canned cooked foie gras, optional
  • 3tablespoons finely chopped parsley
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (4 servings)

1007 calories; 80 grams fat; 38 grams saturated fat; 3 grams trans fat; 28 grams monounsaturated fat; 4 grams polyunsaturated fat; 29 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams dietary fiber; 9 grams sugars; 43 grams protein; 1234 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Heat oven to 350. Melt the butter in a large skillet or Dutch oven set over medium-high heat, and when it foams, add the onion and mushrooms. Stir to coat the vegetables with fat, season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are translucent and the mushrooms have started to brown, about 15 minutes. Transfer half the mushroom mixture to a large bowl, and set the skillet aside.

  2. Step 2

    Make the meatloaf: Mix the panko into the mushroom mixture in the bowl, then add the meat, and mix again, making sure not to overhandle the meat. Add the egg, and mix again.

  3. Step 3

    Transfer to a sheet pan, and shape the mixture into a 11-by-8-inch rectangle (it should be about the size of a sheet of paper). Bake until firm and nicely browned, approximately 1 hour.

  4. Step 4

    Meanwhile, make the gravy: Return the skillet with the remaining mushroom mixture to the stove, and heat over a medium flame. When the mixture is hot and glistening, stir in the tomato paste and paprika. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomato paste just begins to caramelize, about 2 minutes. Stir in the stock and Worcestershire, and cook until it begins to simmer.

  5. Step 5

    Put the sour cream into a medium bowl, and add to it ¼ cup of the hot liquid from the mushroom mixture in the skillet. Stir until combined and warmed. Stir the tempered sour cream and the heavy cream into the mushroom mixture, then heat until warmed, about 5 minutes. Taste, and add salt if needed.

  6. Step 6

    When the meatloaf is done, remove it from the oven, and allow to rest for 10 minutes, then place on a serving platter. Add spoonfuls of the pâté or foie gras, if using, to the gravy, then pour the mixture over the meatloaf and shower it with parsley. Serve immediately, perhaps with buttered egg noodles.

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890 user ratings
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Comments

The instructions call for a rectangle of meatloaf the size of a sheet of paper. The image shows a much narrower and more standard meatloaf shape. Which should it be? I’d think the flat recipe version would be much drier and frankly harder to fit on a plate for serving. Are we really meant to make a meatsheet instead of a meatloaf?

Made this last night, and the flavors are great! I was suspect of the lack of explicit seasoning instructions, so I added salt and pepper with each addition, and tasted frequently. I added a scant teaspoon of nutmeg to the meatloaf mixture which brought a bit of warmth to the flavor without being identifiable. Rave reviews from the family & guests. Served with yukon potatoes roasted in duck fat, green beans with lemon zest, and a raddicchio/beet/grapefruit salad.

I'm not wild about the texture of sliced mushrooms (and I'm not sure how easily they'd integrate into the meatloaf) so I'd just chop them into a coarse duxelles and cook with shallots instead of onions. Crème fraîche instead of sour cream, plus I really prefer meatloaf baked in an old-school glass loaf pan. A great recipe, and endlessly adaptable.

Made it as per. Sauce way too thin. Added some cornstarch.

James Beard's Meatloaf wrapped in bacon used to be my favorite meatloaf recipe out of about 10 I have archived. Sam's recipe has superseded that in my estimation. The meatloaf before you add the sauce is wonderful to taste and great in a sandwich the next day. Adding the sauce with either chicken liver or foie gras addition takes this over the top. Wonderful. I agree to making loaf as in picture as versus a sheet of paper size which comes out not high enough.

less stock put in normal load pan

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