Scallion Egg Wrap

This is a common Chinese-American adaptation of a breakfast dish served throughout northern China and Taiwan. Street vendors start peddling jian bing as the sun rises, spreading a wheat flour and mung bean batter on a large griddle until thin, then cracking an egg or two on top. They scatter on scallions, cilantro and pickled mustard greens, and scramble and spread the mix before squirting on hoisin sauce and chile paste. Sometimes, they add sliced lettuce or wonton crisps for crunch. Making jian bing is a specialized skill and not easily recreated, but this approximation delivers the pleasure and convenience of an omelet cooked onto a thin pancake, the pancake here being store-bought flour tortillas. When warmed, they share the comforting chewiness of the original. This version uses a few essential condiments: Pickled mustard greens, hoisin and chile paste can be found in Chinese or Asian markets or online. But you can, of course, leave them out. In fact, kids often prefer just the egg and tortilla.