Kasha Varnishkes (Buckwheat, Bow Ties and Onions)

Updated Dec. 17, 2024

Kasha Varnishkes (Buckwheat, Bow Ties and Onions)
Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
Total Time
50 minutes
Prep Time
10 minutes
Cook Time
40 minutes
Rating
4(90)
Comments
Read comments

In the 1880s, this simple yet beloved dish of buckwheat (kasha), onion and bow tie noodles (varnishkes) came to New York’s Lower East Side with Eastern European Jewish immigrants. At the time, it was made with homemade egg noodles that were rolled out, cut into squares and painstakingly pinched into bow ties. Nowadays, store-bought bow tie egg noodles are traditional, but any hardy pasta, like gemelli or fusilli, will also work well. Lola Landa, chef and owner of Kafe Jerusalem in Lviv, Ukraine, suggests using European-style whole buckwheat groats for this dish. (The more broken-up varieties tend to get mushy unless toasted first with beaten egg.) What really makes this dish, however, are the onions. While Ms. Landa deep-fries thin slices of onion, I prefer to caramelize them in a skillet. To really gild the lily, add mushrooms before tossing everything together.

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Ingredients

Yield:4 to 6 servings
  • 1cup European-style whole buckwheat groats (kasha), preferably pre-roasted (see Tip)
  • Kosher salt and black pepper 
  • 3cups bow tie egg noodles (about 7 ounces) or farfalle
  • 4medium yellow onions 
  • 2 to 3tablespoons schmaltz (rendered chicken fat) or vegetable oil (see Tip)
  • 4ounces shiitake, cremini or other fresh mushrooms, sliced (optional) 
  • ¼cup chopped parsley
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (6 servings)

230 calories; 7 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 4 grams monounsaturated fat; 1 gram polyunsaturated fat; 38 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams dietary fiber; 4 grams sugars; 6 grams protein; 327 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Put the buckwheat in a medium saucepan, add 1 teaspoon of salt, ½ teaspoon of pepper and 2½ cups of water, and bring to a boil. Cover with a lid, lower the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sit, covered, until all the water is absorbed. (You can do this a few hours ahead of time.)

  2. Step 2

    Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add ½ teaspoon of salt and the bow tie noodles, then cook according to package directions until al dente. Drain.

  3. Step 3

    While the noodles are cooking, slice the onions into ¼-inch-thick rounds. Warm the schmaltz or oil in a wide skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the onions and sauté for about 20 minutes, or until they are deeply browned. Stir in the mushrooms (if using) and buckwheat groats and cook a few minutes more. Taste and season with more salt and pepper as needed.

  4. Step 4

    When the noodles are cooked and drained, add to the pan with the onions and buckwheat and toss gently to combine. Season with more black pepper and sprinkle with the parsley. Serve as a main course with a salad or for Hanukkah with brisket or roast chicken.

Tips
  • Whole buckwheat groats maintain their texture even when boiled. Find them at Eastern European markets or health food stores.
  • To make a traditional schmaltz for kasha varnishkes or matzo balls, trim off chicken fat and skin from an uncooked chicken. Add it to a saucepan and cover it with a little water and a cut-up onion and simmer slowly for about a half hour, until the fat renders and the gribenes (cracklings) turn golden brown. Cool slightly and then strain the schmaltz, saving the gribenes and golden onions to stir into the finished kasha varnishkes. (Or when making chicken soup, simply leave the pot in the fridge overnight. The next morning, skim off the solidified schmaltz from the top.)

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Comments

My grandmother was born in Selisht/Ludwipol. Her kasha varnishkes recipe which I learned at her elbow 60 years ago was different than the one here. Start by caramelizing onions in schmaltz, then add one cup whole grain kasha and an egg to the onions. Sauté until oats and onions are mixed and kasha is slightly brown. Then add two cups of chicken broth. After broth is absorbed, finish with a healthy pinch of salt and half a dozen twists of cracked pepper. She used small sea shells for her varnishkes. So do I.

brown the kasha in an egg before adding the water

Always toast the WHOLE GRAIN kasha in a beaten egg first in a hot pan. Sauté the onions in oil in another pan for a long time on a low flame. Then combine with sautéed mushrooms. Finally drain the noodles and mix everything together. Reheat in a 350° oven to crisp up the top. Make in advance and can freeze.

I love finding delicious mushroom recipes. But to make mushrooms safe to consume, brown with a bit of olive, avocado oil or butter before adding to recipe to neutralize any toxins/bacteria. Also, cooking mushrooms releases nutrients from the cell walls, making them more accessible for the body to absorb. Cooking mushrooms is not just about flavor, but also about making them more digestible, safe, & beneficial. Health benefits of mushrooms are many: cancer prevention, immune support, healthy gut.

Made its and it was so rich, had to liven it up with a lot lemon juice and added some shredded chicken. Definitely something to eat to get you through those cold Easter European springs!

Follow the advice others have left: Toss the kasha with a beaten egg, then dry it out in a pan before adding liquid. The method in the recipe bursts some of the kasha kernels, creating a mushy texture. Hey NYT, I’m a month in with my Cooking subscription. I’m pleased with the variety of recipes, but your recipes seem inadequately tested.

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