Pan-Roasted Chicken With Chiles de Árbol

Pan-Roasted Chicken With Chiles de Árbol
David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. Prop Stylist: Paige Hicks.
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This is a no-recipe recipe, a recipe without an ingredients list or steps. It invites you to improvise in the kitchen.

Here is a riff on a recipe from the Los Angeles chef Suzanne Goin, whose book “Sunday Suppers at Lucques” is an exacting and delicious guide to restaurant cooking at home. Simply brown some chicken thighs in olive oil and butter over medium heat in an oven-safe skillet, adding lots of fresh thyme leaves and a couple of crumbled chiles de árbol. Then apply a thin smear of mustard to each thigh, shower with buttered bread crumbs and transfer the pan to the broiler to crisp the chicken into succulence. Serve alongside or on top of a pile of baby greens lightly dressed in lemon juice and olive oil, with some bread to mop up the juices. That’s fine.

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If your cooking skills are not yet good enough to work with a no-recipe recipe, then just don't. You can pick one of the 50 zillion more-detailed recipes on this website, or the additional 450 zillion on the rest of the internet. Meanwhile, those of us who understand how to use them are happy to have these no-recipe recipes from Mr. Sifton.

This doesn't seem complete. Simply browning chicken and them transferring to a broiler would seem as if the chicken is not completely cooked. No recipe is cool if you already know how to cook. This is irresponsible because of salmonella poisoning and there actually is an oven recipe for this dish in which the oven plays a major role in btween the stove and broiler. In fact, you may not need the broiler at all.

The main point of broiling is probably to brown the crumbs, so you could brown the crumbs before putting them on. Be sure you've crisped up skin well during the pan fry. You'll need to put it in a hot oven for a bit to set the mustard/crumb coating. Judicious use of a plumber's torch works well too (judicious being the key word - start from a distance and move in slowly).

An instant-read thermometer is indispensable for determining whether meat is safe to eat. In this case, the chicken should be done (165 degrees F) or slightly underdone before it goes into the broiler. If you don't have one, cut into the meat near the bone and proceed with the topping only when you no longer see red at the bone. Please don't solo until you are well acquainted with the essentials of landing the plane.

Made this tonight and used two dried, crumbled chiles and dear LORD I pepper sprayed my family! It’s been over an hour and we’re still sneezing and coughing. Windows all open, fans running. Stuck very close to this non-recipe and I’m not sure what went wrong. It tasted fine, but at what cost??

Hallelujah! Thank you, Heide, for your crystalline answer to all of those who chasten us for being beholden to recipes. But NY Times has such extraordinary recipes! And, yes, if I knew how to cook, I wouldn't be following and studying recipes. And, even for the seasoned chefs who put out unforgettable dishes day after day, NY Times provides brilliant twists on favorites, as wells as trailblazing ways to reconstruct food into things SO good to share and savor. Thank you, NY Times Cooking!

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